Chris Boyles

January 23, 2025

Party Like a Porteño: An Extended Stay in Buenos Aires

Chris Boyles

January 23, 2025

Buenos Aires is where dinner starts at 10 p.m., dance clubs sit empty until 4 a.m., and milongas (dance parties) don't stop until sunrise. It’s Latin America's "ciudad que nunca duerme" (city that never sleeps).

The high-octane metropolis is fueled by a unique combination of European vibes and Latin spirit, according to Antonela Caldano, Howdy.com's Buenos Aires-based External Communications Manager.

Buenos Aires received a wave of European migrants in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, Caldano explained. The mass Spanish, French, and Italian migration led to neoclassical architecture, a taste for pizza, and notorious language idiosyncrasies. (Buenos Aires locals, nicknamed porteños, speak Castellano Spanish, a variant where y and ll are pronounced "sh" instead of the traditional "e.")

"Even with all its European influences, Buenos Aires has a distinctly passionate, lively Latin American flair," Caldano said. "It's a strange but amazing combination."

If you're fortunate enough to be visiting this complex, multicultural capital for business, you won't regret extending your trip.

Where to Stay: Palermo

Buenos Aires is officially divided into 48 barrios or neighborhoods, each with a distinct vibe. To stay close to the action, book a hotel in Palermo, a dynamic barrio packed with restaurants and the city's nightlife epicenter.

Palermo is packed with phenomenal boutique hotels. Here are a few favorites:

Home Hotel. This 17-bedroom boutique serves daily breakfast in a leafy hidden garden with a heated pool.
Legado Mitico. Rooted in porteño culture, this high-end, historic hotel features 11 exquisitely decorated rooms inspired by local icons — from author Jorge Luis Borges to tango dancer Carlos Gardel — plus a majestic library and courtyard patio.
Fierro Hotel. This all-suite boutique hotel charms with local wines in the minibar, balconies overlooking the garden, and a rooftop pool terrace.

Day One: Party like a porteño

Facturas at Ninina Bakery

Be forewarned: Breakfast isn't really a thing in Buenos Aires. Traditionally, porteños prefer to start their day with a cup of coffee or maté tea and perhaps a medialuna (picture a cross between a croissant and brioche).

However, the influx of brunch-loving vacationers, digital nomads, backpackers, and expats has brought more desayuno options to the city. In tourist-beloved Palermo, you'll have your pick of simple porteño-style pastries or heartier fare. You can find both at Ninina, an airy, modern bakery serving up tasty facturas (pastries) and Western favorites like eggs benedict and avocado toast.

Sarcophagi, coffins, and crypts in Recoleta Cemetery

For a creepy, one-of-a-kind Buenos Aires experience, head to Cementerio de la Recoleta in the elegant barrio of Recoleta. Beautiful and eery, the sprawling labyrinth of statues, sarcophagi, coffins, and crypts is the final resting place of some of Argentina's most beloved (and controversial) politicians, Nobel prize winners, and entertainers — including actress-turned-first lady Eva “Evita” Perón and former president Carlos Pellegrini. Legend holds that the cemetery is also home to the ghost of David Alleno, a gravedigger who lumbers through the walled streets each morning, rattling his keys behind him.

People watching at La Biela

Your lunch spot is directly across the street from the Recoleta Cemetery: La Biela, a historic Parisian-style terrace cafe once frequented by Argentine authors Jorge Luis Borges and Adolfo Bioy Casares. A Buenos Aires mainstay dating back to 1850, the traditional eatery serves up sandwiches, small pizzas, and classic Argentine entrees. La Biela's patio — which overlooks the bustling Recoleta Plaza — is superb for people-watching, but you'll pay slightly higher menu prices for the privilege of sitting outside.

19th-century European masterworks at Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes

Buenos Aires is a treasure trove of top-notch museums — far too many to see in a 72-hour stay. Happily, you are only a few blocks from one of the city's most famous and finest, Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes (MNBA). The art museum houses Latin America's largest public art collection, with over 12,000 pieces from artists like Claude Monet, Edgar Degas, Vincent Van Gogh, and Henri Toulouse Lautrec. Admission is free; the space gets crowded on the weekends.

Merienda in Palermo

Porteños don't eat dinner until late — very late. Buenos Aires restaurants don't typically open for dinner before 8 p.m., with guests rarely turning up before 10 p.m., according to Caladano.

To avoid getting hangry before dinner, do like a porteño and take an evening merienda, or tea and snacks. A tradition imported from Spain, a merienda typically involves an espresso, coffee, or mate tea paired with toast or a sugary factura.

Partake in the merienda tradition in Palermo, where you'll find panaderías (bakeries) on practically every block. Try an alfajore — an iconic Argentine pastry sandwiching creamy dulce de leche between two delicate cookies — at the Malcriada bakery, which serves up several iterations of the legendary factura.

Steaks and Argentine wines at Don Julio

Michelin-starred steakhouse Don Julio is a can't-miss when you're in Argentina, though you'll likely need to make a reservation around three months in advance. The famous restaurant is celebrated for its exceptional cellar and mastery of the parrilla, the traditional open-fire hearth Argentine grill.

Predictably, the star of the menu here is steak, from succulent bife de chorizo ancho (sirloin strip steak) to juicy asado de tira (short ribs). Cuts are cooked in front of you by master grillers and served with seasonal veggies grown on Don Julio's organic farm.

Watch the sunrise on the Costanera Norte coast

Want to party like a porteño? Be prepared to stay out until the sun comes up.

Kick off your brave quest to salir de joda with a meticulously crafted cocktail or two at Victoria Brown, a stylish speakeasy hidden behind a cafe. Make it to 2 a.m. — the witching hour when the night inevitably devolves to dancing — you can find the city's top boliches — including Terrazas del Este, Pacha, Je, and Tequila — lined up next to each other along the Costanera Norte coast.

If you're still dancing when the clubs close around 7 a.m. — well done! For your fortitude, you'll be treated to a sunrise over the Rio de la Plata river as you stumble out of the bar.

Day Two: Museum hop in Palermo

Sourdough and punk rock at Salvaje Bakery

After last night, you need a carb-heavy breakfast and the low, soothing tones of Lou Reed. You'll find both at Salvaje Bakery, a hip panaderia serving sourdough, buckwheat, rye, and carob-based goodies. At this bread paradise, apron- and beanie-clad bakers also prepare hangover staples like avocado toast, scrambled eggs, and flat whites.

Ateneo Grand Splendid

A famously literature-loving city, Buenos Aires has more than 700 brick-and-mortar bookstores. The most beautiful is the Ateno Grand Splendid. Housed in an opera house-turned-cinema-turned bookstore, the Grand Splendid has soaring frescoed ceilings, ornate theater boxes, elegant balconies, and plush red curtains. There’s a cafe on the former stage, artfully arranged book displays in the former orchestra and mezzanine sections, quiet nooks, and stunning views. The Grand Splendid is a dazzling experience whether you're a bibliophile or not. (Warning: There's only a tiny section of English-language books).

Street art and shopping in Palermo

Dedicate the rest of the day to museum-hopping in Palermo. Start at Museo de Arte Latinoamericano de Buenos Aires (MALBA), a museum housing more than 500 works of art by leading contemporary LatAm artists, including Diego Rivera, Rafael Barradas, and Alejandro Xul Solar.

Next, head to the nearby Museo Evita, a museum dedicated to the beloved former first lady. The fascinating museo traces Perón’s life through dresses, photos, memorabilia, clothing, and videos.

If time allows — and you aren't trying to sneak a nap in before dinner — spend some time exploring Palermo Soho. This subsection of Palermo is packed with boutique shops and decorated with colorful football-centric street art.

Globally inspired cuisine at Julia

Dinner tonight is at Julia, another coveted BsAs restaurant where reservations are essential. (If you can’t get in, try its nearby sister restaurant, Franca.) Julio Martín Baez, chef at both restaurants, fuses ingredients from small producers across Argentina with global flavors. Both seasonal à la carte and 10-course tasting menus are available; past standouts have included a koji-aged wagyu flank, fresh Patagonia squid tossed in a yogurt-walnut pesto served with sliced avocado, and chicken pâté with Jerusalem artichoke chips.

Cocktails at Frank's Bar

No one would blame you for wanting to take it easy tonight — luckily, if you booked a hotel in Palermo, you won't have to go very far to find a low-key cocktail bar to nurse a drink. Try Florería Atlántico, an intimate, cavelike subterranean speakeasy where Renato Giovannoni — one of the city’s top mixologists — serves superb cocktails and mocktails that pay tribute to Argentina's Indigenous and rural communities.

Day 3: Soak up history in San Telmo

Breakfast at Mercado San Telmo

Spend your last day in town exploring the history-packed, nostalgia-imbued San Telmo neighborhood. The barrio's belle-époque architecture and crumbling mansions are reminders of its 19th-century prime, when wealthy Spanish families rode horse-drawn buggies along the cobblestone streets.

Kick off your morning at Mercado San Telmo. A local fixture since 1897, the market retains its Italian-style façade, soaring ceilings, and original inner metal framework. The market occupies a city block and houses an eclectic mix of eateries and vendors selling antiques, records, crafts, and knickknacks.

For breakfast — and some of the best coffee in town — visit the Coffee Town stall in the middle of the mercado. Treat yourself to one of Coffee Town's excellent sweet and savory waffles, which come topped with goodies like dulce de leche or ham and cheese.

Shop the Feria de San Telmo

If you're in town on a Sunday, you can catch the Feria de San Telmo, the barrio's famous flea market. On Sundays, vendors cram Calle Defensa, hawking everything from leather crafts and antiques to designer clothing and jewelry. Buskers serenade shoppers, and makeshift streetside grills sizzle up choripan, a popular street snack featuring chorizo sausage atop a crusty bun. Bring cash, as most vendors won't accept cards, and keep a firm hold of your belongings in crowds.

Quilmes and fries at Bar Británico

Strolling down Calle Defensa will lead you to Bar Británico, an iconic eatery that opened in 1928. You might recognize the wooden tables and checkered patterned floor; the cafe has appeared in films like The Motorcycle Diaries and Francis Ford Coppola's Tetro. Pull up a chair among the locals reading their newspapers and enjoy a cortado or Quilmes beer with a sandwich and fries.

Watch tango around Plaza Dorrego

Tango shows can be touristy and reliably overpriced. A better option is to hang out around Plaza Dorrego, where you can catch impressive professional tangos shows on most afternoons. Young, old, and always graceful, the dancers are mesmerizing and talented — so tip generously.

Plaza Dorrego is framed by cafes and eateries with outdoor seating. While unremarkable and overpriced, these spots are a good place to post up and watch the dancers while enjoying a cheese plate and a malbec.

Anamatronic Jesus at Tierra Santa

Tierra Santa | Source: Tierra Santa

After your afternoon merienda, you'll be in the right headspace for Tierra Santa — Buenos Aires' delightfully kitschy religious theme park. The sprawling property is built to look like Biblical Jerusalem and features an animatronic reenactment of the Last Supper, a carousel ride of manger animals, and a Nativity light show. The park's pièce de résistance is the hourly resurrection of a 40-foot Jesus, who rises from a mountain, blinks, and turns his palms to his subjects below while Handel’s Messiah blasts from the speakers.

Farewell dinner at Narda Comedor

You may be suffering from steak fatigue at this point in your trip. Take a break from meat at Narda Comedor, a plant-led eater helmed by celebrated celebrity chef Narda Lepes. The mess-hall motif restaurant places seasonal veggies and legumes centerstage, though meat from sustainable providers is also served. Creative dishes — like the silken tofu, shakshuka, and bibimbap — draw inspiration from the chef's travels across Asia, the Middle East, and Latin America.

Panoramic sunset views at Crystal Bar

End your 72 hours in Buenos Aires with panoramic city views at Crystal Bar, a rooftop watering hole on the 32nd floor of the posh Alvear Icon hotel. The views atop this swanky joint are spectacular, overlooking the upscale Puerto Madero waterfront and the sculptural Puente de la Mujer footbridge. On a clear night, you can see across the River Plate estuary to Uruguay. Go early; the bar tends to fill up quickly, and you won't want to miss one of the best DJ-soundtracked sunset shows in town.

Practical information

When to go

Buenos Aires stays hopping year-round, with different festivals, holidays, and events coming to the city every month, according to Caladeno. Considering this, the best time to visit Buenos Aires depends on your weather preferences.

"Buenos Aires doesn't get very cold, but it does get really hot in the summer," Caldano said. (Note that because Argentina is south of the equator, summer happens from December to March).

Visit the city during the spring (September to December) to get the most temperate and least rainy weather, Caldano recommended.

What to eat

Asado An Argentinian barbecue is more than just dinner. An asado is a feast of meat — from chorizo and morcilla (blood sausage) to short ribs and rib-eye — cooked on a wood-fired parrilla grill. Grilled meats are served with chimichurri, a tangy green salsa made of finely chopped parsley, oregano, onion, and garlic.

Alfajores Argentina is rumored to be the world’s largest consumer of alfajores, crumbly shortbread cookie sandwiches. Cookies are typically filled with dulce de leche, a thick caramel made from condensed milk.
Choripán Choripán is a chorizo sausage cut in half, topped with chimichurri, and served between slices of crusty bread. A prerequisite before any fútbal match, eating choripán is a quintessential Buenos Aires experience, according to Caldano. "Americans have nachos," she said. "We have beer and choripán."
Empanadas A crispy turnover beloved across Latin America, empanadas are everywhere you turn in Buenos Aires. Argentina's take on hand pies can be baked or fried and filled with everything from stewed beef and goat to sweet potato paste and dulce de leche.
Fernet Originally sold in Italian pharmacies as a digestif, this bitter-tasting Italian liqueur has become confoundingly popular in Argentina. So vital is the beverage to Argentines, Fernet was added to the nation's precios cuidados (price-freeze) program to protect it from soaring inflation in 2014. Porteños drink it with Coke. "Usually people hate it and can't stand the smell at first," Caldano said. "But there comes a time when you suddenly change teams and love Fernet."
Mate Argentina's most popular beverage, yerba mate, is a high-caffeine tea often served in hollowed-out squash gourds with a metal bombilla (straw). Mate is ingrained in Argentine culture and considered part of the national identity, according to Caldano.. "Mate is a social drink," Caldano explained. It's shared among friends, family, and colleagues as a way to "establish relationships" with others, she added.

Getting around

Ubers are plenty in Buenos Aires, as are cheap metered taxis. The city is also wonderfully walkable, and walking can be the quickest way to get around during rush hour. When traffic is bad, you might also try the Subte, Buenos Aires' six-line subway network.

Many hotels offer private transfers to and from the Ezeiza International Airport (EZE). You should also be able to catch an Uber going either direction, though wait times at the airport can be long. Do not take a taxi from the airport, as many are unlicensed and known to overcharge.

Using money

The Argentine economy is complicated, and the Argentine Peso is constantly fluctuating. Considering this, it's best to carry US dollars to exchange for pesos once you arrive in Argentina. You can exchange your dollars into pesos at banks, currency exchanges, and even some hotels around Buenos Aires.

Alternatively, you can send money from your home bank account to yourself via Western Union. You'll find Western Union branches across the city, including one at the airport.

Many hotels, upscale restaurants, and stores may accept credit cards. However, cash is often the only accepted form of payment in local shops, restaurants, and markets. It's wise to plan ahead and book a hotel that accepts cards, and before sitting down, ask a restaurant, "Acepta tarjetas?" (Do you accept cards?)

Except in emergencies, do not use an ATM to withdraw cash in Buenos Aires. ATMs offer poor exchange rates, charge high fees, and often run out of money.

Speaking the language

English is widely spoken around Buenos Aires, though older people, staff at small shops, and street vendors may only speak Spanish. A little effort to speak the language will make for a smoother trip and endear you to the locals. Brush up on your Spanish and familiarize yourself with some of the city's favorite sayings and slang terms:

Che Much like "hey" in English, che is used to get someone’s attention. For example: ¿Che, me pasas mi cerveza? (Hey, can you pass me my beer?)

Boludo/a A term of endearment among friends, like dude or pal. Translating literally to "asshole," boludo can also be used as an insult, depending on the context.

Copado/a Slang for "cool" or "awesome."

Mina Slang for "chick" or "gal."

Canchero A person who comes off as skilled or experienced but often with a hint of arrogance or showing off. ("Porteños are known for being cancheros," Caldano said. "They like to play cool.")

Pedo Perhaps the most confusing porteño slang word, pedo, literally translates to fart. However, the word means different things depending on how you use it, said Caldano. Possible uses include:

En pedo - To be drunk
Al pedo - To be free or have nothing to do
De pedo - By chance or coincidence (For example: "No estudié mucho para el examen; aprobé de pedo." I didn't study much for the test; I passed by coincidence.)

Chris Boyles

January 22, 2025

Montevideo, Uruguay, is the Coolest City You've Never Heard Of

Chris Boyles

January 22, 2025

It's a well-worn travel cliche, but Montevideo, Uruguay really is a hidden gem.

Although it's the capital of one of Latin America's most progressive countries (marijuana, abortion, and marriage equality have all been legal for a while, college is free, and there is universal health care), Montevideo has a reputation for being on the sleepier side. The quiet capital city tends to get bypassed by travelers visiting its jazzier neighbors like Buenos Aires and Punta del Este. Montevideo attracts only a handful of visitors, even during its annual Carnival celebration — a colorful 40-night extravaganza that is the longest in the world.

Don't let the lack of tourism fool you, urges María Eugenia Rodriguez, Howdy.com's Uruguay Community Admin.

"Montevideo is small in size but big on charm," Rodriguez says. "The city mixes urbanism, beaches, and countryside, and offers a variety of experiences — from lively beaches to historic architecture."

Give this chilled-out capital a chance, and you'll find Montevideo as enticing and eclectic as any tourism hot spot. If you're passing through for work, don't pass up the opportunity to devote a long weekend to discovering the city's hidden charms.

Where to stay: Pocitos

Rodriguez recommends staying in Montevideo's stylish coastal barrio, Pocitos.

"Pocitos is a popular neighborhood with a beautiful beach and vibrant atmosphere," she says. "It's a great choice for visitors who want to be close to the sea and cafes, restaurants, and shops."

Consider booking a room at one of these excellent Pocitos hotels:

Hotel Costanero Montevideo - A luxury beachfront hotel with superb ocean views.
Hyatt Centric Montevideo - Another beachside option decorated with installations from local artists.
Cottage Puerto Buceo - An upscale, eco-minded option with a rooftop terrace and bicycles for rent.

Chemex and carrot cake at La Farmacia Cafe

Bypass your hotel's breakfast spread and head to La Farmacia Cafe, a pharmacy-turned-cafe in Montevideo’s historic Ciudad Vieja (Old Town). At this light-filled, nostalgic spot, agile baristas work beneath an overhead mirror so you can watch as cappuccinos and Chemex pour-overs are expertly prepared.

Order your beverage of choice with a thick slice of coffee or carrot cake. For something more substantial, try the crunchy avocado toast with sprouts on freshly baked bread. Grab a stool by the window so you can watch Ciudad Vieja amble by.

Cobblestone streets and neocolonial mansions in Ciudad Vieja

Spend the morning exploring Ciudad Vieja, which Rodriguez describes as "stepping into a storybook." In the picturesque Old Town, you'll find cobblestone alleyways, endless museums, and more art-deco architecture than any city other than New York.

An ideal starting point is Plaza Independencia, a bustling main square commemorating independence hero José Artigas. The center of the square is dominated by a subterranean mausoleum housing Artigas's remains. The plaza is surrounded by several historic structures, including the remains of the city walls and town gate and the 26-story, art deco-style Palacio Salvo.

Just off the plaza is the Teatro Solís, an 1856 structure famed for its fine acoustics. Guided tours of the impressive neoclassical theater offer insights into its history, architecture, and behind-the-scenes operations; call ahead to arrange one in English.

Locally inspired bistro fare at Jacinto

For lunch, head to Ciudad Vieja's critically acclaimed Jacinto restaurant, which sits on a cobblestone street just off Zabala Square. The charismatic all-day bistro was spotlighted in an episode of Anthony Bourdain's Parts Unknown.

Jacinto dishes out an approachable, healthy, market-driven menu of Spanish, Italian, African, and locally inspired dishes. Sit outside if you can, and try the grilled polenta with spinach or shrimp empanadas with cilantro and ginger.

Museo Andes 1972

A quick stroll from the restaurant will take you to Museo Andes 1972. The museum tells the harrowing tale of Uruguayan Air Force Flight 571, an airplane carrying a Uruguayan amateur rugby team that crashed in the Andes Mountains. Of the 45 people aboard the plane, 16 survived the ordeal by turning to cannibalism.

The disaster — made famous in the book Alive! and Netflix movie Society of the Snow — had a dramatic effect on the nation's psyche. The museum is straightforward, unflinching, and curated with the help of the survivors and their families.

Parrilla at La Perdiz

Within the last decade, Montevideo has welcomed a growing number of trendy, small-plate-focused, vegetarian-friendly eateries. But make no mistake: Uruguay is a meat-loving country, where cows outnumber people three to one and there are more parrilla steakhouses than any other type of restaurant.

La Perdiz — an upscale eatery in posh Punta Carretas — stands out in a country packed with parrillas, says Rodriguez.

"The meat quality is top-notch, and the cozy vibes seal the deal," Rodriguez adds.

Try the pinaña (rump) or bife ancho (rib-eye) steaks with a glass of heavy, full-bodied Uruguayan Tannat wine. If you're not in the mood for meat, you're in the wrong country — but the kitchen does make an exquisite seafood risotto.

Tango show and dancing at Baar Fun Fun and Lotus Club

For a city so chill, Montevideo parties. Montevideoans will start a typical night out with dinner at 10 p.m., progress to drinks at a bar around midnight, and hit the club for dancing around 3 a.m.

Think you can party like a Montevideoan? Kick off the night at Bar Fun Fun, a historic cabaret famous for its mesmerizing tango shows. (FYI: Buenos Aires gets all the credit for tango, but the dance was invented between the ports of both cities.) The unassuming spot was a favorite haunt of tango-legend Carlos Gardel. Be sure to try uvita, the famous raisin-flavored liquor invented, produced, and bottled onsite.

After the show and a shot or two of uvita, you can keep the party going at the across-town Lotus Club. Widely considered the city's best, upscale, disco ball-decorated club draws well-heeled guests with house and electronic music.

Day 2: The Rambla and Parque Rodó

Asian and Southern-style smoked eats at Sometimes Sunday

Enjoy your second breakfast in Montevideo at Sometimes Sunday, a local institution dishing out fusion cuisine inspired by Asia and the American South. Take a seat in the small, sunny space and chow down on menu highlights like kimchi pancakes, roasted grapefruit with sugar and chile, and a succulent 12-hour-smoked pulled pork sandwich. If you're nursing a uvita hangover, order one of the eatery's top-notch bloody marys.

Ride down the Rambla

If there is a single, quintessential activity that defines Montevideo, it is hanging out by the rambla (boardwalk).

The Rambla de Montevideo (Montevideo Rambla) is a coastal avenue that extends from downtown to the far eastern suburbs, snaking past 13-plus miles of spectacular seafront. On sandy beaches, beaches, and grassy knolls along this riverwalk, you'll find locals posted up and partaking in the national drug of choice: mate (pronounced mah-tay), a caffeinated herbal tea as ubiquitous in Uruguay as iced coffees are in the US.

The Rambla can be explored by foot or bicycle. Many hotels offer bike rentals, but if yours does not, Orange Bike offers full-day rentals with helmet and bike lock included.

Chivito at Expreso Pocitos

You've been in Montevideo for over 24 hours — it's high time you've tried its beloved national sandwich, chivito. Comprising steak, ham, bacon, cheese, hard-boiled egg, mayonnaise, and various garnishes, the chivito was described by Bourdain as a "terror-inspiring heap of protein" and is usually shared between multiple diners.

You can try to tackle this meat mountain at Expreso Pocito near Pocitos Beach. A Montevideo mainstay since 1910, the diner-style eatery has one of the best chivitos in town.

Art and nature in Parque Rodo

After a quick post-chivito nap at your hotel, venture to Parque Rodo, a leafy neighborhood with a sprawling park of the same name. The middle of Parque Rodo (the park) is where you'll find one of the city's best museums, Museo Nacional de Artes Visuales (MNAV). The museum houses well-known paintings by Picasso, Klee, and Goya alongside pieces by Uruguayan artists like Blanes and Figari. In addition to the large permanent collection, MNAV often showcases meticulously curated temporary exhibits of up-and-coming local artists.

Do as the Montevideans do and pop into the museum's cafe, The Lab Coffee Roasters, for a Uruguayan-style merienda (afternoon snack). One of six locations in the city, the museum outpost serves up excellent cortados and yummy cinnamon rolls.

Consider taking your goodies para llevar (to-go) and eating in the lush surrounding Rodo Park. The park — which Rodriguez calls her favorite "nature escape" — features a lake and an old-fashioned amusement park.

"It's a huge park with a lake, walking paths, and green spots," Rodriguez said. "It's my go-to for picnics and catching cool events."

Small plates and sashimi at Café Misterio

For dinner, Uber up to Café Misterio in the upscale barrio of Carrasco. At the iconic restaurant, you'll encounter a lively crowd, many of whom have been coming since the restaurant opened over 25 years ago. Take a seat in the dimly lit dining room to feast on creative small plates — like braised lamb empanadas, grilled squid with smoked paprika, and salmon ceviche — and some of the best sashimi in the city.

Craft beer at Malafama

Cap off the night with a foray into Uruguay's blossoming craft beer scene at Malafama. The country’s fourth-largest craft brewery, Malafama, is set in a cavernous warehouse and offers a solid selection of house-brewed IPAs, stouts, and lagers, along with selections from other Uruguayan breweries. Should you get peckish, the popcorn is free and the brick-oven pizza is delicious.

Day 3: Punta del Este

Punta del Este road trip

Today, go for a quick pastry and coffee at your hotel breakfast bar to make plenty of time to hit Punta del Este. A popular beach destination, the swanky resort town sits about two hours outside Montevideo. Comfortable, air-conditioned buses leave the Montevideo airport every hour; tickets are around USD 20 one way. Alternatively, you can inquire with your hotel if they offer a transfer van service — this shouldn't cost you much more than USD 50.

Beach hopping

Once in Punta del Este, make a beeline for the beach. There's no shortage to choose from; popular options include the surfer-beloved Montoya, the sunbather-packed Bikini Beach, and the clothing-optional Playa Chihuahua.

For an essential Uruguayan experience, be sure to end up in Playa Brava (Brava Beach). This eastern stretch of sand is where you'll find the town's iconic La Mano (The Hand) sculpture, created in the '80s by Chilean artist Mario Irrazábal. The sculpture serves as a drowning warning for those venturing into the high waves behind it. Even if you aren't into that sort of thing, don't miss the photo opportunity: Getting a photo climbing on this sculpture tops the unofficial Uruguay travel bucket list.

Calamari and cocktails at I'marangatú

For lunch, cross the peninsula to I'marangatú, a beachfront restaurant on Playa Mansa. Service from the staff of impeccably tanned twentysomethings can be spotty, but the views overlooking the pristine white sands and calm, lake-like water of Playa Mansa are worth it. Order the calamari and a couple of fruity cocktails and stay a while. Note that this place is popular around lunchtime and in the evenings around sunset; play it safe by reserving a table in advance during the busy months of January and February.

Grab a souvenir on Avenida Gorlero

Before boarding the bus or van back to Montevideo, stretch your legs with some window shopping down Avenida Gorlero, Punta's glamorous main commercial strip. The thoroughfare runs northeast-southwest through the heart of the peninsula and is lined with cafes, boutiques, and casinos. The avenue passes through the Feria de Artesanos (Artisan Market), where you can sift through handmade jewelry and other handicrafts for a souvenir.

Farewell dinner at Francis

After catching a nap and a shower at your hotel, it's time for your farewell dinner. Rodriguez recommends Francis, an elegant restaurant in the Punta Carretas neighborhood.

"Francis is my spot for sophisticated dining," Rodriguez said. "They nail creative dishes and offer an excellent wine selection."

Everything on the menu is thoughtfully prepared, but the seafood is particularly exquisite. Pair standout small plates — like the pulpo a la plancha (grilled octopus) and chipirones (baby cuttlefish) — with a glass of wine from the excellent cellar.

Farewell dessert and drinks at El Mingus

Top off your trip to Montevideo with a drink at El Mingus. The intimate, inviting jazz club hosts live performances nearly every night and serves up a delicious crema catalana (Spanish crème brûlée) to accompany your farewell beverage. Try the house specialty: grappamiel, a beloved Uruguayan liquor made from grappa and honey.

Practical information

When to go

Rodriguez recommends visiting Montevideo during the Southern Hemisphere's spring (September to November) and summer (December to March).

"During this period, temperatures range from mild to warm," Rodriguez says. "It’s also a great opportunity to explore our stunning beaches."

If you plan on the Punta del Este side trip, it's best to visit Uruguay during the warmer months. Punta tends to shutter during the colder months and come alive during the summer.

Getting around

"Montevideo is a small city, making it easy to navigate on foot," Rodriguez says.

For longer journeys, you'll find that Ubers are plentiful, as are safe and affordable taxis, she adds.

Carrasco International Airport is a small, single-terminal airport serving as the primary hub for flights to and from Uruguay. The easiest, quickest way to travel to and from the airport is to Uber. An Uber between the airport and downtown should cost around 770 pesos (18.21 USD).

Using money

The official currency of Uruguay is the Uruguayan peso (UYU). It is denoted using the symbol “$;” US dollars are distinguished with "U" or "US." For example, $10 denotes 10 Uruguayan pesos; US$10 and U$10 denotes 10 US dollars.

At the time of writing, the peso traded at approximately 40 pesos to the US dollar.

Many tourist-oriented businesses in Montevideo and Punta del Este widely accept US dollars and credit cards. ATMs dispense both Uruguayan pesos and US dollars.

What to eat

Uruguayan cuisine is diverse, pulling from Spanish and Italian traditions with some indigenous influences. Ahead, Rodriguez shares the essential Montevideo food and drinks to try on your trip:

Asado Uruguay's take on barbecue. Asado can contain virtually any cuts of meat imaginable; in Uruguay, one of the most beloved additions is choto, or grilled intestine.
Chivito Uruguay's national dish, a colossal sandwich filled with beef, ham, cheese, fried egg, tomato, and mayonnaise, often served with fries.
Pizza al estilo uruguayo Uruguayan-style pizza, also called "pizza de bar." It's usually rectangle-shaped with a thick crush.
Mate A ubiquitous caffeinated tea made from yerba mate leaves. It's traditionally consumed by groups of friends and family and passed around to each person, Rodriguez says.
Grappamiel A traditional liquor made from grappa — a fragrant, grape-based pomace brandy and honey.

Speaking the language

Montevideo has fewer English speakers than other major Latin American destinations. An estimated 5 to 10 percent of Uruguay's native-born population speak English as a second language, with the bulk of these concentrated in Montevideo.

That said, you can get by with minimal Spanish, and locals are approachable and patient to non-Spanish-speaking guests. To help you prepare for your trip and brush up on your Spanish, Rodriguez shared some essential local slang:

Bo Used similarly to "hey" when addressing someone.

Re This is used as a prefix to mean "very." For example: "relinda" ("very pretty") or "reloco" ("very crazy").

Salado Literally "salty." Depending on the context, salado can refer to something difficult, amazing, or huge.

Ta A filler word or an interjection used similarly to "okay" or "sure." For example: "¿Ta?" ("Do you agree?") "Ta, ta" ("Okay, okay!"), or "¡TA!" ("Stop!")

Botija/Guri Slang for a child or teenager. Both terms can be used on adults, either sarcastically or endearingly.

Garra Charrúa An expression describing courage or bravery, mainly used in soccer matches. It pays homage to the Charrúa Indigenous tribe, and can be translated as "charrúan tenacity."

Chris Boyles

January 22, 2025

Why You'll Fall in Love with Bogotá, Colombia's Misunderstood Capital

Chris Boyles

January 22, 2025

Travelers, other Colombians, and even locals tend to agree that Bogotá is an acquired taste.

"It's a cold city," warns Howdy's Bogotá-based Community Administrator, Katherinne Romero. "We call it 'la nevera' (the fridge)."

Chilly weather isn't the city's only problem. With its traffic-clogged streets and stretches of concrete jungle, Bogotá is not conventionally beautiful, nor are its charms immediately apparent. Bogotá isn't a Caribbean beach town like Cartagena or a tourism hotspot like Medellin. If you find yourself in the sprawling city, you're likely traveling for work or passing through.

Whatever brings you to this misunderstood metropolis, give Bogotá a chance to pull you in. You'll be rewarded with cultural and culinary gems, from fascinating museums and colonial-era palaces to lively nightclubs and some of the continent's best restaurants.

Where to stay: Champinero

To make the most of your 72 hours in Bogotá, where you stay matters. Your best bet is to book a hotel in the hip, bohemian Champinero neighborhood, one of the city's most appealing barrios for its safety and central location. Champinero is also home to Zona G (for "gourmet"), an eclectic concentration of some of the city's best dining options. You'll also have your pick of Bogotá's top hotels, including:

Click Clack Hotel Bogotá: This hyper-modern 11-story building draws young, well-heeled guests with inspired details (like a Space Invader–patterned elevator and Earl Grey-scented tissues) and a thumping rooftop dance club.
Four Seasons Casa Medina: Designed by Colombian artist-architect Santiago Medina Mejia, this 1946 brick-and-stone landmark hotel features individually designed rooms with beamed ceilings and fireplaces.
Casa Legado: Each room in this family-owned hotel is inspired by one of the owner's nieces or nephews and is equipped with thoughtful touches — like herbal bath salts by the bathtubs and toe-warming hot water bottles in the bedsheets. You'll be served fresh coca tea on arrival to help with the high altitude.

Day 1: La Candelaria and Chapinero

Chemex and croissants at Varietale

Considering how coffee has been the dominant crop in Colombia since the late 1800s, it often surprises visitors how hard it is to get a decent cup of coffee in the country. This is changing in Bogotá, where a growing number of cafes are pushing the city into the world of third-wave coffee and contemporary brewing methods.

Witness Bogotá's coffee renaissance first-hand at Varietale, one such cafe staffed by enthusiastic baristas brewing up local beans using virtually any method — from Aeropress to DripperV60. Don't caffeinate on an empty stomach; pair a Chemex pour-over with a flaky almond croissant. Or — for something more substantial — try the avocado waffle with scrambled eggs and pan de yuca cheesy bread.

Cobblestones and neoclassical architecture in La Candelaria

After breakfast, hop in an Uber to La Candelaria, Bogotá's centuries-old historic quarter with pastel-colored houses and narrow cobblestone streets. The sprawling barrio juxtaposes old and new, with modern restaurants, cafes, and galleries sprouting up among the colonial buildings and old homes with wooden shutters and filigreed balconies.

Start your sightseeing at Plaza de Bolívar, La Candelaria's main square. Several neoclassical architectural standouts frame the plaza, including the Palace of Justice, the National Capitol building, and the Cathedral of Bogotá. Planning tip: Along with the crowds of tourists, the square draws flocks of unruly, dive-bombing pigeons — wearing a hat is advisable.

A short stroll from the square will take you to Museo Botero, a museum curated by one of Colombia's most famous artists, Fernando Botero. The museum displays more than 100 paintings of his distinctive, whimsically chubby characters, along with artwork by Picasso, Monet, Matisse, and Klimt.

Cheesy hot chocolate at la Puerta Falsa

Walk a block from the Museo Botero to one of Bogotá's oldest and most iconic restaurants: La Puerta Falsa (The False Door). The tiny snack shop has served home-cooked Colombian food to loyal customers — including artists, politicians, and journalists — for over 200 years.

Warm yourself up with a bowl of La Puerta Falsa's famous ajiaco, a hearty soup made with shredded chicken and three kinds of potatoes. For a true Colombian experience, finish lunch with the chocolate completo: hot chocolate served with chunks of cheese. Tradition dictates that you plonk the cheese into the beverage until it melts into silky strings, which you twirl around your spoon and slurp down.

Pre-hispanic gold at Museo del Oro

Around the corner from La Puerta Falsa, you'll find Bogotá's Museo del Oro (Gold Museum). The celebrated museum is home to over 55,000 priceless pre-Hispanic artifacts, including gold and other materials like pottery, stone, and shells. One of the museum's most famous pieces is the Balsa Muisca, a tiny gold artifact depicting — in incredible detail — the legendary El Dorado ceremony. Performed by the indigenous Muisca people, the ritual honored a new chieftain by covering him in gold dust and submerging him, his raft, and other offerings into a sacred lake.

Locavore-driven small plates at El Chato

Head back to Chapinero for dinner at El Chato — the critically acclaimed contemporary bistro helmed by Bogotá-native chef Álvaro Clavijo. Expect flavorful, locavore-driven dishes like chicken hearts with candied native potato and suero costeño, crab with rice chips and charred corn husks, and tapioca pate with wild blackberry.

The first floor is open to guests dining on the a la carte menu, while the second floor is reserved for the tasting menu. Whichever option you choose, make reservations a few days in advance.

Craft beer and dancing in Chapinero

For a post-dinner drink, pop by Mono Bandido Bar. A key player in Bogotá's burgeoning craft beer scene, the popular watering hole serves up some excellent in-house and local brews on tap. The large, redbrick bar attracts a young, cool crowd and hosts live music and the occasional magic show.

You could end the night there. But if you want to party like a rolo (slang for Bogotá local), head to Theatron, the city's world-renowned gay club. The colossal five-story venue — housed in a former theater — has 13 dance floors, each playing its own style of music. The club charges an entrance fee of up to 50,000 COP (around $12 USD) that includes a reusable cup that gets you all-night open-bar access.

Day 2: Zipaquirá

Breakfast sandwich at Masa

Hangovers are uniquely horrible in Bogotá, where high elevation means the air contains less oxygen than at sea level. After a night of open bar access at Theatron, you’ll need a carb-heavy breakfast and robust cappuccino, stat.

Masa has you covered. Bogotá's stylish, internationally beloved bakery cranks out the best bread and croissants in the city and stacks them with ingredients like gruyere, avocado, and scrambled eggs. Colombian owners and sisters Silvana and Mariana Villegas earned their stripes working kitchens in New York City. You'll find U.S. favorites like morning buns and donuts on the menu, too. There are several Masa locations throughout the city; the architect-designed cafe on Calle 105 — with its towering triangle windows — is the coolest and worth the trek from your hotel.

Guanábanas and granadillas at Mercado de Paloquemao

One of the city's most important markets, Mercado de Paloquemao, is a maze of aisles brimming with produce, vegetables, meat, fish, dairy, and flowers. The indoor mercado dazzles with exotic fruits you've never heard of — bright tomato-like lulos, spiky guanábanas, and freckly orange granadillas filled with sweet, slimy pulp. Want a taste? Linger at a stall, and a vendor will eagerly cut open a choice piece and offer you a slice.

Predictably, Paloquemao is home to fantastic juice vendors, who blend exotic delights with water or milk. In addition to juice and produce, the market is a good place to sample local snacks like tamales stuffed with meat and potatoes and cornmeal arepas fresh from the grill.

Salt Cathedral in Zipaquirá

After eating your fill of fresh fruit and cheesy bread, you'll be ready for the journey to Zipaquirá — a small pueblo about an hour's drive from Bogotá. The town is home to one of Colombia's most iconic architectural attractions: a soaring underground cathedral carved into a former salt mine. Join an hour-long tour to explore the cathedral, tunnels, and salt sculptures, and walk past the 14 Stations of the Cross, each cinematically illuminated and carved in salt rock.

To get to Zipaquirá, you can take a tourist train from Bogotá’s Sabana station. The train only runs on weekends and Colombian holidays; an Uber shouldn't set you back much more than $50 if you're traveling on a weekday.

Meat and music at Andrés Carne de Re

On your way back from Zipaquira, you can't not stop at Andrés Carne de Res — Bogotá's famous restaurant cum nightclub and a Colombian right of passage.

The festive joint was founded as a roadside grill about an hour outside of the city in 1982 and has since expanded to the size of a small village, complete with a rock climbing wall, a supervised kids' play area, gardens, patio spaces, multiple stages and five dance floors. Its 19-page menu includes a huge variety of dishes but specializes in meat cooked Argentinian style on a parilla grill.

At Andrés Carne de Res, you'll be serenaded by roving performers as staff fling yellow paper butterflies in the air (a reference to Colombian author Gabriel García Márquez's "One Hundred Years of Solitude.") Expect to be plied with shots of aguardiente, Colombia's (truly horrible) fiery anise-flavored national spirit.

Day 3: Usaquén and Zona T

Brunch at Abasto

After a night at Andrés Carne de Res, you might be off to a late start this morning. You're in luck: Abasto — a beloved eatery in the historic neighborhood of Usaquén — is renowned for its brunch. The restaurant draws large crowds at brunch time on weekends, but trust us: the fresh breads and hearty arepas stuffed with local ingredients are worth waiting in line for, aguardiente hangover and all. Don't miss the egg arepas or the torta de almojábana, which is bread pudding served with a tangy guayaba sauce.

Antiquing in Usaquén

After a revitalizing brunch and a cup of coffee or three at Abasto, you'll be set to explore the surrounding neighborhood of Usaquén. Once a separate municipality incorporated into Bogotá in the late 1950s, Usaquén retains its small-town vibe, with a stone main square, colonial-era houses, boutique shops, and cafes.

Visit on a Sunday to catch the Mercado de las Pulgas de Usaquén (Usaquén Flea Market). One of the hippest flea markets in Latin America, the Mercado has been a popular weekend outing for rolo families for nearly three decades. At the bustling market, vendors hawking everything from repurposed home goods to locally made honey while busking performers provide entertainment.

Views from Monserrate

You have a few options to get to the top of Cerro de Monserrate, the mountaintop viewpoint offering breathtaking views of the city below: You can hike the 1.8-mile winding trail up the city’s sentinel mountain. You can hop in an Uber. But to save energy while taking in the best views, your best bet is to hop in one of the teleféricos (cable cars), which depart from the Parque de los Periodistas. At the summit, you’ll find a 17th-century church, small shops selling local handicrafts, and dazzling views across Bogotá's urban sprawl.

Final dinner at Elcielo

For your last dinner in town, reserve a table at Elcielo. The eatery, from Michelin-starred Colombian chef Juan Manuel Barriento, is known for elevated Colombian food and dramatic presentations — such as the tableside "chocotherapy," which involves washing your hands in liquid chocolate to awaken your senses. Expect over 15 courses of super creative plates, like activated charcoal buñuelo with a porcini and black truffle filling, corn tempura with sweet potato, and green mango popsicle with a spicy powder coating and a shot of aguardiente to cleanse the palate.

Farewell Drinks at Apache Rooftop

Bid farewell (for now) to Bogotá on the rooftop of the trendy Click Clack Hotel. The 10th-story bar, Apache, offers majestic panoramic city views — perfect for a sunset cocktail.

Colombia's Gabriel Garcia Márquez once wrote, "It can't be helped: In Colombia, any gathering of more than six people, regardless of class or the hour, is doomed to turn into a dance." Márquez's wisdom holds at Apache, where live DJs ramp up the tempo after 9 p.m. If you don't have an early flight, stick around to join the mix of beautiful locals and hotel guests when they inevitably swarm the dance floor.

Practical Information

When to go

The third highest capital city in the world, Bogotá stays chilly year-round.

Temperatures typically range between 50°F and 70°F year round, dropping to around 48°F at night. The rainiest months are April to June and October to November. The "dry" season runs from December to March — but inclement weather is always a possibility, Romero warns.

"The weather here is so variable," Romero says. "I recommend bringing a really warm jacket."

Getting around

Bogotá’s traffic is notoriously congested, so plan your travel times accordingly. Taxis are cheap, but ride-sharing apps are more convenient and safer for getting around — especially at night.

"Sometimes drivers make you pay more for a service if they notice you're a foreigner," Romero says. "I recommend using Uber, Cabify, or Didy to make sure you get a fair price."

Similarly, Uber and other ride-sharing apps are the easiest way to get to and from Bogotá's airport, El Dorado International Airport (BOG). The 20-minute journey between BOG and the city center should cost around $8.

Using money

Colombia uses the Colombian Peso (COP). At the time of writing, the exchange rate is about 4,100 COP per $1 US dollar.

Hotels and most restaurants accept cards, but many small businesses and market vendors are "solo effectivo" (cash only). Local shops and vendors prefer smaller bills, so try to break your larger bills at fancier spots and hoard your smaller notes for when you need them.

Staying safe

"As with any major city, some parts of Bogotá are more secure than others," Romero says.

Most of the wealthy, safer neighborhoods are concentrated in the north of the city, while the poorest — which tend to receive less police protection or private security — are in the south, according to Romero.

Even poorer neighborhoods are reasonably safe during the day, "but it's good advice to watch your surroundings and be careful," Romero says.

What to eat

Bogotá is making waves in the high-end contemporary food scene, combining creative techniques and international influences with local flavors and ingredients. For a complete culinary experience, however, don't leave town without trying these classics:

Chocolate completo Also known as chocolate santafereño, chocolate completo refers to the Colombian tradition of dropping cheese into hot chocolate. Weird — yes — but also delicious. Try it, and you'll understand the Colombian rhyme: "Chocolate sin queso es como amor sin beso" (Chocolate without cheese is like love without a kiss).
Ajiaco Bogotá's signature dish, ajiaco is a thick, fragrant soup made with three types of potatoes, chicken, corn, capers, and guasca, a leafy Colombian herb. Thick and rib-sticking, the dish is just what you want after a drizzly day in Bogotá.
Tamales Bogotános Bogotá's take on the popular Latin American dish, tamales Bogotános — also called tamales Santafereños — are less spicy and chunkier than the tamales you've had in the U.S. or Mexico. Although no two tamales are ever alike, Bogotá-style street snacks are usually stuffed with chunks of chicken or pork belly, wrapped in banana leaves, and steamed.
Changua This simple bread-based breakfast soup — made with milk, water, eggs, scallions, and cilantro — is a time-honored hangover cure.
Arepas Beloved by Colombians, many foreigners find these cornmeal cakes to be a little bland and dry. You'll see arepas everywhere, topped with cheese, stuffed with meat, and served plain, so give them a try. Unique to Bogotá are the slightly sweet arepas boyacenses (pronounced bo-ya-senses), which are stuffed with cheese and made with panela (brown sugar).

Speaking the language

You can get by on minimal Spanish in Bogotá — but for a smoother, more authentic experience, familiarize yourself with Spanish basics. Here are a few words and phrases you will hear throughout your three-day visit:

A la orden A common Colombian customer service idiom meaning "at your service." You'll hear it after saying "gracias" after finishing a transaction, or from shop staffers and market vendors trying to catch your attention.

Bacano Slang for "great" or "awesome."

Parce Short for parcero or parcera, which means "pal" or "buddy."

Pues A word Colombians use to fill dead air, similar to "um" or "eh." Pues can also be used as emphasis — for example: ¡Hágale pues! (Do it, already!)

Que pena A way to apologize, translating roughly to "how embarrassing," or "how inconvenient," or "sorry to bother." You won’t hear this in other parts of Latin America — but in Medellín, you'll hear it several times a day.

¿Que mas? A slang greeting, similar to "what's up?" You can respond by saying, "Bien, y tú?"

Que chimba A common expression typically used to refer to something great or awesome but also to express displeasure, depending on the context. While used abundantly, the phrase is technically a swear and may not be appropriate for formal situations.

Rumba A word for "going out" or "party."

¿O Qué? This expression translates to "or what?" and is typically used at the end of questions in casual conversation. For example: "¿Bien o qué?" ("All good, or what?").

Chris Boyles

January 22, 2025

Why ‘The City Of Eternal Spring’ Deserves A Long Weekend

Chris Boyles

January 22, 2025

Decades after the death of notorious drug lord Pablo Escobar, it's still hard to talk about Medellín without acknowledging its tumultuous past. Colombia's second city has come a long way in the last 30 years, transforming from the war-torn epicenter of a cocaine empire to a modern, progressive metropolis and travel hot spot — instrumental in Colombia’s recent tourism boom and hailed as one of the World's Greatest Places by TIME in 2023.

Today, Medellín draws droves of vacationers, digital nomads, and business travelers with year-round springlike weather, thumping nightlife, blossoming gastronomy, and an emerging tech scene. In addition, the city is home to some of the friendliest locals (nicknamed paisas) you'll ever meet.

"Paisas are known for kindness and hospitality," says Howdy.com Medellín Community Manager Caro Taborda. "[We] love to talk about our city's history and culture."

Exploring the sweaty salsa haunts, hip coffeehouses, and sprawling museums in this sunny ascending city would take years. But — if all you've got is a few extra days tacked on to your work trip — you can see a lot in just 72 hours with the right itinerary (and a bit of hustling).

Where to stay: El Poblado

One of Medellín's poshest and most popular neighborhoods, El Poblado, is where you'll find much of the city's best cafés, bars, restaurants, and tourist attractions. There is no shortage of excellent hotels in El Poblado, but top picks include:

The Charlee Hotel: Funky retro decor, expansive balconies, and ultra-cool rooftop pool and bar make Medellín institution a traveler darling.

The Click Clack Hotel Medellín: This design-forward hotel has a leafy open-air lobby, a sleek, sexy rooftop cocktail bar, and three onsite restaurants.
Marquee Medellín: Modern with a hint of Great Gatsby glamor, this intimate 42-room property features a subterranean speakeasy that plays live jazz.

Day 1: El Centro and El Poblado

Cold brew and croissants at Pergamino

Kick off your day with a cold brew and almond croissant at Pergamino, an iconic family-owned cafe serving some of the city's finest coffee. The menu includes roasts from local growers and filter preparations such as Chemex and Aeropress. For a superb souvenir, grab a freshly roasted bag of Lomaverde, Pergamino's flagship beans grown on its farm in the Santa Bárbara mountains.

Boteros and street snacks in El Centro

Once you're good and caffeinated, take a 20-minute Uber to Medellín's historic El Centro neighborhood. In this gritty, bustling barrio, street vendors hawk produce, treats, and flowers beneath colonial churches. This is your chance to sample the city's street food — don't miss the crispy potato empanadas or green mangos sprinkled with salt and lime.

Street snacks in hand, walk to Plaza Botero, a buzzy square populated by 23 pudgy bronze statues made by Fernando Botero, the city’s native son. After rubbing the statues for luck (as legend dictates), pop into the adjacent Museo de Antioquia. The second-oldest museum in Colombia features a collection spanning 19th-century and contemporary Colombian art.

Hearty lunch at Hacienda Junin

For lunch, stop by Hacienda Junin for hearty Colombian staples like chicharrones and empanadas. The original location of a long-time local chain, Hacienda Junin is an excellent spot to try the bandeja paisa — a feast of beans, rice, carne en polvo (minced beef), ripe plantains, egg, pork cracklings, avocado, and an arepa. The traditional Colombian dish was originally for field workers who needed a carb- and protein-heavy meal to fuel a long day of manual labor. Be prepared to take a nap afterward.

Window shopping in El Poblado

After sleeping off the bandeja paisa in your hotel, work up an appetite for dinner by exploring El Poblado on foot. The affluent, central neighborhood has a little bit for everyone: Eco-chic boutiques, cocktail joints, parks, and museums. Should you need a second cup of coffee, you have plenty of exceptional options — Cafe Primavera and Mon Rou being chief among them.

You may or may not have time before dinner to hit Museo El Castillo, a 17th-century mock gothic castle surrounded by French-style gardens. Once home to the wealthy landowning Echavarria family, El Castillo offers free tours and a permanent collection of French and Spanish artwork and antiques. The castle is around a 30-minute walk from El Poblado and closes at 5 p.m.

Contemporary Colombian cuisine at Carmen

Make reservations well in advance to score a table at Carmen. This legendary establishment incorporates locally sourced ingredients — from line-caught Pacific Coast fish to wild duck from Cumaral — into contemporary Colombian dishes. Standouts include the crab and shrimp empanadas with ají de guanábana (soursop chile), pulpo (octopus) with nut sauce, and Caribbean cassava cake. Dinner is served in an open-kitchen-adjacent dining room and an ivy-clad courtyard.

DJs, dancing, and drinks at Salón Amador

Cap off the night with a thoughtfully crafted cocktail or two at Salón Amador — a hip watering hole where lively, stylish crowds dance to electro and house music deep into the night. If you stay long enough to befriend any locals, you'll inevitably be offered a shot of aguardiente (literally "firewater"), Colombia's national liquor with a fiery kick and anise flavor. However, you may want to politely decline unless you want to spend the next day hungover.

Day 2: Paque Arví and Comuna 13

Eggs benedict at Al Alma

However you spent the preceding night, the bacon-stacked eggs benedict at Al Alma Café will leave you re-energized and ready for another day of sightseeing. Al Alma has several locations in the El Poblado area, but the Al Alma Provenza location is the most central.

Cable car to Parque Arví

Once you're restored back to life, it's time for a hike through the city's leafy mountaintop park, Parque Arví. The 4,350-acre nature reserve enchants with its pine and eucalyptus forests, lakes, lookout points, and butterfly garden.

The journey to Parque Arví might be as cool as the park itself, involving a gondola ride over hillside barrios and a birds-eye view of Medellín. You can hop on a cable car at the Acevedo metro station and transfer at Santo Domingo to Parque Arví.

After a morning of hiking, stop at Mercado Arví to refuel on pastries and other goodies from local farmers and artisans. For something more substantial, try a classic Colombian lunch at one of the many nearby local eateries. A popular option is Estadero El Tambo, which serves a traditional Colombian "menu del dia" with a soup, drink, and main course.

History and graffiti at Comuna 13

The next stop on your itinerary is Comuna 13, a colorful community on the western fringes of the city and one of Medellín's most compelling highlights. Once run by violent drug trafficking organizations, Comuna 13 was transformed by community projects and escaleras electricas (outdoor escalators), which connect the once violent and isolated hillside barrio to the city below. Today, the formerly bullet-riddled walls are covered in bright murals and street art.

While you can visit Comuna 13 on your own, it’s safest (and more interesting) to go with a local guide. The Comuna 13 Graffiti Tour from Visit Medellín Tours is a trusted option that includes an English-speaking local guide and snacks.

International eats at Mercado del Rio

For dinner, head back to El Poblado to check out Mercado del Rio. The trendy food hall, housed in a nineteenth-century soap warehouse, is jammed with food stalls serving international eats and craft cocktails. Popular vendors include the pork-focused Cerdología and the upscale Italian-inspired Parmesano.

Salsa at Son Havana

Still have some steam left after a day of sightseeing? Head to the hipster neighborhood of Laureles to Son Havana, a dark and moody Cuban-style salsa bar with live bands and a packed dance floor. The crowd is welcoming, comprised of locals and foreigners of varying experience levels — from novices to seasoned steppers. No matter where you fall on the salsa talent spectrum, you'll likely find plenty of partners eager to take you for a spin.

Day 3: Guatapé

Flat white and avocado toast at Hija Mia

Founded by a New Zealander, Hija Mia serves what might be the best flat white and avocado toast in the city. Its coffee is roasted onsite using beans sourced from several coffee farms around Santa Maria in Colombia's Huila region. You’ll want to arrive early to get a spot at the intimate, original Manila location, but if you don't make it in time, the cafe has a larger second location on the floor of the nearby Nomad Hostel.

Massive monoliths and colorful murals

For your third and final day in town, venture outside the city to Guatapé, a postcard-pretty pueblo on a sparkling lake. The town is best known for La Piedra del Peñol, a 70-million-year-old rock once worshiped by the Tahamies Indians. The 10-million-ton monolith offers striking views of the surrounding lakes and islands for those who climb the winding, 649-step staircase to the top.

After huffing and puffing up La Piedra, it's worth spending a few hours wandering the narrow cobblestone streets and brightly painted bas-relief murals. Follow the main street with a colorful ceiling of umbrellas to Plazoleta de los Zocalos, a public plaza with cafes and craft shops. Grab an outdoor table at the plaza-side Kaffa Cafe to people-watch over a frozen cafe affogato or fruity sangria.

The easiest way to get to Guatapé — a two-hour drive from Medellín — is through a tour group. Plenty of options are easily discoverable online; this highly rated, full-day group tour through Viator includes round-trip transportation from Medellín, a boat tour, and a traditional Colombian lunch.

Short ribs and 80s music at Oci

Once you're back in town, it's time for your final Medellín meal (until your next visit, anyway). Reserve a table at one of the city's best restaurants, the edgy and urban Oci. Parisian-trained Chef Laura Londoño fuses local produce with Asian flavors and '80s tunes play overhead. Don't miss the fall-off-the-bone short ribs or classic guanabana merengón (a meringue-based dessert).

Farewell drinks at Envy Rooftop

Toast the trip with a farewell cocktail at the Envy Rooftop at The Charlee Hotel, which draws pretty people with its poolside bar and live DJ. In addition to being one of the hottest spots in town, the design discotheque offers dazzling views of Medellín's skyline.

Practical information

When to go

When people refer to Medellín as "La Ciudad de Eterna Primavera" (the City of Eternal Spring), they aren't exaggerating. Its year-round temperatures rarely exceed the low 80s (26°C) during the day or dip below the low 60s (15°C) at night.

Considering these constants, there's really no bad time to visit Medellín. That said, the city tends to see less rainfall during its dry season, generally from December to March.

Are you the type of traveler who enjoys concerts, crowds, and parties? You may want to plan a trip during the summer when you can catch the city's famous Flower Festival (August), International Tango Festival (August), Poetry Festival (July), or Colombiamoda (July) fashion show.

What to eat

Colombians have notoriously conservative palates, favoring fried foods and shying away from spice. Medellín is slowly shaking this reputation, introducing new dishes that push culinary boundaries while incorporating local ingredients and honoring the town's Indigenous roots.

Still, no Colombia trip would be complete without sampling a few of the country's time-honored classics. Taborda, Howdy's Medellín Community Manager, encourages travelers to try the following:

Bandeja paisa The national dish of Colombia hails from the Antioquia region, and typically consists of a massive platter of ground beef, chicharron, rice, beans, avocado, an egg, an arepa, and plantains.
Sancocho This hearty traditional stew is typically made with chicken, pork ribs or oxtail, potatoes, yuca, corn, and plantains. It’s paired with rice, avocado, and ají (a dipping sauce with tomato, cilantro, peppers, and onions) on the side.
Arepas These cornmeal pancakes are often served as a side at meals. You can also find street vendors who serve arepas split open and filled with cheese, meat, and fried eggs.
Buñuelos These popular fried dough balls are made with tapioca flour, corn flour, and aged queso fresco — think a savory donut hole. These ubiquitous, calorie-packed pastries pair well with coffee.
Empanadas The empanada is common across Latin America, but Colombia's version is deep fried and thereby uniquely decedent. Popular fillings include cheese, seasoned ground beef, and potatoes. In Medellín, empanadas are often served with ají and a slice of lime.
Mazamorra Mazamorra is a pudding-like dessert made with mushy corn, often served with milk and panela, a soft candy made from sugar cane.
Hot dogs You didn't fly to South America to eat hot dogs — but hear us out. Colombian-style hot dogs aren't the typical ketchup-squirted weenies you see in the US. These street snacks are piled high with crumbled potato chips, bacon, and quail eggs, then crisscrossed with strings of garlic mayo, salsa rosada (ketchup with mayonnaise), and pineapple sauce, Served by street vendors and at late-night joints around the city, Colombian hot dogs are the ultimate way to end a late night of drinking and dancing.

Using money

Colombia uses the Colombian Peso (COP), which — at the time of writing — roughly translates to 4,100 COP per $1 US dollar.

While hotels and higher-end restaurants accept cards, many local establishments and vendors are "solo effectivo" (cash only). You can withdraw Colombian pesos from ATMs at the airport and throughout the city.

Pro tip: ATMs generally dispense 50,000 peso notes, which many local eateries, street vendors, and market stalls won't accept. Try to break your larger bills at fancier hotels and restaurants, and hang on to your smaller 2,000-, 5,000-, 10,000- and 20,000-peso notes for smaller spots.

Getting around

Ubers and cabs are plentiful in Medellín. It's best to use an app — like Uber, Tapsi, or Easy Taxi — to summon a rideshare or taxi. Yellow cabs hailed on the street are usually metered, but using an app can help ensure you're charged a fair fare.

Medellín is connected with a clean and efficient metro system, which includes bus, cable car, and rail networks. The six-line gondola system whizzes up the surrounding hills like a ski lift and is worth riding for the dazzling city views alone. You can pay per ride and purchase tickets at the stations for 2,500 COP.

Getting to and from the airport

Medellín’s Jose Maria Cordova International Airport is located in Rionegro, around 30 minutes southeast of the city. The airport is small but busy, with signs in both Spanish and English. To get to the city from the airport, request an Uber or use the official taxi line.

Head to the airport a couple hours early when catching your departure flight. Security is relaxed, but the airport can get crowded. Once you're through security, the terminal has restaurants, cafes, bars and souvenir shops where you can spend your last remaining pesos.

Speaking the language

You can survive on minimal Spanish in Medellín. Tours are offered in English, which is widely spoken by hotel and restaurant staffers in heavily touristed areas like El Poblado.

That said, you'll have a smoother experience if you brush up on your Spanish basics, and a little effort to speak the local language will go a long way. Here are a few words and phrases you will likely hear throughout your three-day trip:

Dar papaya A popular phrase used to describe putting yourself in risky situations. For example: Flashing your brand-new iPhone or a wad of bills would constitute dar papaya.

Parce Short for parcero or parcera, which means "pal" or "buddy."

Pues A word Colombians use to fill dead air, similar to "um" or "eh." Pues can also be used as emphasis — for example: ¡Hágale pues! (Do it, already!)

¿Que mas? A slang greeting, similar to "what's up?" You can respond by saying, "Bien, y tú?"

Rumba A word for "going out" or "party."

¿O Qué? This expression translates to "or what?" and is typically used at the end of questions in casual conversation. For example: "¿Bien o qué?" ("All good, or what?").